Khaman before eleven: a morning in our farsan kitchen
The first batter goes into the steamer at 6.15 am. Here is what happens next.
Why is there sugar in the dal
A common complaint from first-time guests, and why we still make it the Ahmedabad way.
The question we hear most from guests visiting from outside Gujarat is why the dal tastes sweet. The short answer is that it is meant to. Gujarati toor dal is cooked with a little jaggery and kokum or lemon, so it is sweet, sour and hot at the same time. The same balance runs through the kadhi and most of the shaak.
The reason is partly climate and partly habit. Ahmedabad summers are long and dry, and the combination of sweet, salt and sour is thought to keep you eating and drinking without feeling heavy. It also works with the rest of the plate: a sweet dal next to a sharp pickle and a hot green chilli makes every mouthful taste a little different.
We do not add white sugar to our dal. We use about a tablespoon of jaggery for a large pot that serves 40, along with kokum soaked overnight. It is less sweet than many home kitchens in the old city.
If you would rather not have it, tell your server. We keep a pot of plain dal with no jaggery for guests who ask, and the Kathiawadi thali’s kadhi and shaak are less sweet anyway. Diabetic guests often choose the Kathiawadi plate for that reason.
