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10 July 2026 · 2 min read · Pagdandi Footwear

Derby, oxford, loafer or monk: which one to buy first

Four shapes cover almost every occasion. How they differ, what each suits, and which to choose if you can buy only one.

Most people walk into our shop asking for “formal shoes”. The term covers four quite different shapes, and the right one depends on your feet as much as on your wardrobe.

An oxford has closed lacing: the eyelet panels are sewn under the front of the shoe. It looks sleek and suits suits, but it is unforgiving on a high instep, which many Indian feet have. A derby has open lacing, with the panels sewn on top, so the shoe can open wider over the foot. Our tan derby at ₹5,490 is the pair we suggest most often as a first good shoe, because it goes with trousers and with a bandhgala.

A loafer has no laces at all. It needs to fit closely at the heel, so getting the width right matters more than with any other shoe. It is the easiest to wear in a Pune office, where shoes come off and go on at every doorway. A monk strap closes with a buckle and sits between the two in formality. It adjusts a little through the day as your feet swell, which some customers with wide feet find useful.

If you can buy only one pair, choose a dark brown derby on a leather sole. It works at a wedding, an interview and a dinner, and it can be resoled when it wears through. Black can wait until you need it.

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