Is a higher count always a better yarn?

A common assumption, especially among new garment brands, is that a higher yarn count means better quality. Buyers ask for 60s or 80s because it sounds finer, and sometimes end up with a fabric that is too thin, too costly or wrong for its use.

Count in the English system, written Ne, measures how fine the yarn is: the number of 840-yard hanks in one pound. Ne 30s is thicker than Ne 60s. A higher count needs longer, finer cotton and more processing, so it costs more per kilo, but it is not stronger. In fact, finer yarns have lower breaking strength per thread, because there are fewer fibres in the cross-section.

The right count depends on the fabric. For a regular single jersey T-shirt of 160 to 180 GSM, Ne 30s is the usual choice. Ne 40s gives a lighter, smoother T-shirt of around 140 to 150 GSM. For shirting poplin, 40s to 60s is common; our grey poplin is 60s by 60s. Counts of 80s and above are for fine shirts, voiles and luxury knits, and only make sense if the end customer will pay for them.

Quality is better judged by evenness, strength and consistency than by count alone. A well-spun Ne 30s compact yarn with low imperfections will make a better T-shirt than a poorly spun 40s. Look at the CSP, U% and imperfection figures on the lot sheet, and ask for a sample to knit before committing to a large order. Tell us your GSM and end use, and we will suggest a count.