Seeing Jaipur’s Diwali bazaar lights with children

In the week before Diwali, the walled city’s market associations string lights across every bazaar, and each market tries to outdo the next. It is one of the most beautiful sights in Jaipur, and it is also extremely crowded. A little planning makes it a pleasant evening with children.

Go on a weekday between Dhanteras and Diwali if you can, and arrive at about 6.30 pm, as the lights come on and before the crowds peak at 8. Park outside the walls, near Ramniwas Bagh or at the multi-level parking at Chandpol, and walk or take an e-rickshaw in. Driving inside the walled city during these days is slow and stressful.

A simple route: start at Chandpol, walk east along Tripolia Bazaar under the lights to Choti Chaupar, then turn into Johari Bazaar, which usually has the grandest canopy. Bapu Bazaar and Nehru Bazaar, towards Sanganeri Gate, are quieter and good for buying small diyas and toran. The full walk is about 2.5 km; with small children, do half of it.

Keep younger children on your shoulders or in a carrier rather than a pram, which is hard to push through the crowd. Write your phone number on a slip in each child’s pocket. Carry water and a small snack, and agree on a meeting point, such as the Hawa Mahal side of Badi Chaupar, with older children. If you are collecting a gift box from us that evening, come before 7 pm. After that the lane outside our shop is full, and loading a car is difficult.