Gelato, ice cream and kulfi: what is the difference?

All three are frozen milk desserts, but they are made in different ways, and that changes how they taste.

Ice cream is churned fast, which whips in a lot of air, often half its volume. It is usually made with cream and egg yolks, so it is rich, light and served very cold. Gelato is churned slowly with more milk and less cream, so it holds less air and feels denser. We serve it a few degrees warmer, around minus 12 °C, which lets the flavour come through and gives the soft, stretchy texture.

Kulfi is not churned at all. Milk is reduced on a low flame for hours until it thickens and caramelises slightly, then flavoured and frozen in moulds. That is why it is so dense and melts slowly, and why it tastes of cooked milk.

At home, take a gelato tub out of the freezer five minutes before serving. Kulfi can go straight to the plate; it is meant to be firm.