Is attar only for older men and for the mosque
Attar is often seen as something worn by grandfathers on Fridays. Our customers, and their reasons for wearing it, say otherwise.
A morning in Chowk, from Akbari Gate to Phool Wali Gali
Our lane sits in one of the oldest markets in Lucknow. A walking route for visitors, with what to see, eat and buy along the way.
Chowk is the old heart of Lucknow, and it is best seen on foot before the afternoon crowds. Plan for three hours and come before 10 am, when the lanes are cool and the shops are just opening.
Enter through Akbari Gate and walk north along the main bazaar. This stretch is known for chikankari: the white-on-white hand embroidery of Lucknow. Look for small workshops where women sit stitching, and feel the difference between hand chikan and machine copies before you buy anything. A hand-worked cotton kurta usually costs ₹1,800 or more.
Turn into Phool Wali Gali, the flower lane, where garlands of rose and jasmine are strung each morning for weddings and the dargahs. Our shop is at number 7. Come in, and Faiz or his cousin Zoya will let you test as many attars as you like on your wrist and on paper strips. There is no need to buy.
For breakfast, the lanes near the Gol Darwaza serve nihari and kulcha from early morning, and there are halwais selling hot jalebi and makhan malai in winter. Wear shoes you can walk in, keep a little cash for small purchases, and be ready to step aside for scooters in lanes no wider than a door. Fridays are quieter until the afternoon, as many shops open after the midday prayer.
