How to tell a fresh fish at a glance

You do not need to be a fisherman to judge a fish. Start with the eyes: they should be clear and slightly domed, not cloudy or sunken. Lift the gill cover and look for bright red; brown or grey gills mean the fish has been out of the water too long.

Press the side of the fish gently with a finger. Fresh flesh springs back at once; old fish keeps the dent. The skin should shine and the scales hold tight. A fresh fish smells of the sea, clean and a little briny. A strong, sour smell is a warning, and no amount of tamarind will hide it in the curry.

For steaks of seer or tuna, look at the cut face. It should be moist and glossy, with no dry edges or brown patches near the bone. Prawns should be firm with heads attached; a black head means they are a day or two old.

At our counter we are happy for you to check all of this before we clean the fish. If you order online, every bag goes out with the auction time on the label, so you know exactly when it came off the boat.